Fairfax Tavern and Bar
Price: $19
Meat: 8oz (my guess-timate)
Bun: Potato Roll Burger Bun
Cheese: Smoky Cheddar
Extras: Red Onion, Pickles
Sides: $11 Fries w/ Mustard & Ketchup
Sauce: BBQ Mayo
Fairfax had been on my list for some time, but a colleague’s insistence that it serves his favorite burger in the city finally pushed me to visit. I rarely need much persuasion when it comes to burgers—I’m an equal-opportunity enthusiast. On this occasion, I was joined by a friend who secured us a table, and as luck would have it, restaurateur Gabe Stulman was seated beside us.
From our vantage point, the décor immediately stood out. The walls were lined with artwork and objects stretching all the way to the ceiling. Rather than feeling cluttered, the layered aesthetic complemented the tavern atmosphere. Every glance revealed another detail, adding character without distraction.
The cocktail list proved equally engaging, filled with playful pop culture references. I opted for the “Everybody Loves Raymond” and the “Black Squirrel Old Fashioned.” Both are worthwhile selections—particularly if rum or bourbon is your spirit of choice.
Of course, the true focus here is the food. The Pork Toast makes for a strong opening act: what appeared to be sourdough, nicely toasted, topped with slow-cooked pork and finished with honey, pink peppercorns, and fresh herbs—likely fennel fronds. It strikes a thoughtful balance of sweetness, spice, and richness.
The main event, however, is the Bar Sardine burger. Visually distinct, it features a notably flat-topped bun that immediately sets it apart. While the reasoning behind its shape may not be obvious, it does not detract from the overall experience. The single patty is dressed with BBQ mayo—an uncommon but welcome departure from standard burger sauces—alongside red onion and pickles. The unexpected addition of in-house potato sticks provides a signature crunch, giving the burger both textural contrast and personality.
At $19, the burger alone represents solid value in a city saturated with high-priced options. The complication arises with the fries, which are not included and cost $11. While they are well-executed, they are difficult to justify at that price point. A burger without fries feels incomplete, yet together they bring the total to $30—territory that prompts pause. It’s reminiscent of a similar price shift at Red Hook Tavern, where a move from $29 to $30 may seem minor but psychologically changes the calculation. There are other burgers of comparable quality available at a more favorable price.
On its own, the Fairfax burger meets the quality-to-value standard. Paired with fries, the proposition becomes less convincing. For me, $29 feels like the upper boundary for a burger-and-fries experience; once it crosses into $30, it enters a different category altogether. While I understand the realities of inflation, if the burger can remain at $19, it seems reasonable that the fries could fall below the $10 mark.
That said, the burger itself is distinctive and well worth trying if you’re in the area. Whether the fries justify their price is a decision you’ll have to make for yourself.