Manhatta
Burger with a view
Price: $32
Meat: 6oz Short Rib, Brisket, Dry-aged beef | 80/20 lean to fat ratio
Bun: In-House Sesame
Cheese: Cooper Sharp
Extras: Koji Onions
Sides: Steakhouse Fries $19
Sauce: Shiitake Mayonnaise
I never intend to let so much time pass between posts, but as is often the case, life has a way of becoming overwhelmingly busy. That said, Manhatta has remained on my list of destinations for quite some time. While I had previously visited for their tasting menu, this return was specifically to experience the à la carte offerings.
It would not be an exaggeration to describe Manhatta as one of the most visually striking settings in which I have had a burger. From the moment you enter the lobby to the ascent to its dining room on the 60th floor, the experience is defined by its sense of elevation—both literal and aesthetic. The panoramic views of the New York skyline are, without question, the restaurant’s most defining feature. One could reasonably draw comparisons to concepts such as Restaurant Gordon Ramsay High in 22 Bishopsgate, which echoes a similar ambition in pairing fine dining with dramatic height and perspective.
For the sake of transparency, I was invited by a friend employed at Manhatta, who benefits from a staff dining discount. That said, I have maintained the same standard of evaluation, particularly in assessing the burger through a quality-to-value lens. Our reservation, also arranged by my friend, was at the bar.
Upon being seated, we were welcomed by Seth, the bartender, who graciously offered a welcome drink. Rather than deliberate extensively over the menu, I entrusted my friend with the selections. What followed was an expansive sampling—arguably more than half the menu. We began with caramelized nuts, followed by hand-cut chips, potato croquettes, a pull-apart garlic knot, “Buffalo” duck wings, pork skewers, and bass skewers. It was an indulgent progression, and notably, the skewers stood out as particularly thoughtful and well-executed. By the time the burger arrived, we were already well satiated.
At my friend’s suggestion, we ordered both the chopped cheese and the dry-aged burger to share. Given the opportunity to explore more of the menu, it was an easy decision. Both items are served on the same house-made seeded bun, making them visually similar at first glance; however, the distinction becomes immediately apparent through aroma alone. The chopped cheese carries a pronounced truffle presence that clearly sets it apart.
Turning to the burger itself: a 6oz patty served on a generously sized bun. The most immediate observation is the imbalance—the patty appears undersized relative to the bread. While I appreciate a restrained, straightforward approach to burgers, balance remains essential. The beef blend is well-composed, and the accompaniments—Cooper Sharp cheese, koji onion, and shiitake mayonnaise—complement the meat effectively. However, the bun ultimately dominates the experience.
To be clear, the bun itself is excellent. There is evident care in its construction, and it deserves recognition among well-crafted burger buns. However, it would be better suited to a larger patty, as its current proportion disrupts the overall harmony of the dish. This imbalance is further underscored by the $32 price point, which notably excludes fries.
Steakhouse fries are available as a side for $19. Presented in a vertical, Jenga-like stack, they offer a playful visual element. Texturally, they are successful—crisp on the exterior with a soft interior. At a combined cost of $51 for burger and fries, the dish becomes a complete meal, albeit at a premium. One might argue that the presentation could lean further into its playful concept; a more deliberate stacking structure could even make the Jenga reference interactive. At that price, a touch of added novelty would feel justified.
In concept, the burger is compelling. In execution, however, it falls short of achieving the necessary balance between its components. From a value perspective, adjustments are needed—whether that means increasing the patty size, reducing the bun, or reconsidering pricing. Pairing the burger with a more modest side, such as the house chips, could also improve the overall value proposition.
There are many compelling reasons to visit Manhatta, particularly its atmosphere and setting. However, when evaluated strictly on a quality-to-value basis, the burger is not among them.