Emily

The Pretzel bun is not joke

Price: $31

  • Meat: Pat Lafrieda Dry-Aged Meat, 7oz

  • Bun: Pretzel

  • Cheese: Grafton Cheddar

  • Extras: Caramelized Onion, Cornichons

  • Sides: Fries

  • Sauce: EMMY Sauce (Gochujang, Mayonnaise, Sugar & Vinegar, Garlic, Sesame seeds, and possibly soy sauce, mince ginger, honey and/or fish sauce


What I found most interesting about this burger was the widespread criticism of its pretzel bun. Several people who had tried it before told me that the bun was the weakest link. I disagree. In fact, it was my favorite component. A pretzel bun carries an inherent salinity and subtle chew that can elevate a burger when used thoughtfully. Here, its savory profile complemented the sweeter elements layered into the build, creating a contrast that, in my view, worked to the burger’s advantage.

The patty itself was respectable, though not without flaw. In my case, portions of the meat skewed slightly over-charred, which introduced a bitterness that distracted from its otherwise solid execution. Where the burger ultimately faltered, however, was in the combination of sauce and caramelized onions. Independently, each element may have been defensible; together, they tipped the balance too far into sweetness, resulting in a composition that felt less harmonious than intended.

It may seem counterintuitive to order a burger at Emily - Brooklyn, a restaurant widely celebrated for its pizza. Yet the burger has become a notable part of its identity and a draw in its own right. That reputation alone makes it worthy of consideration. Adding to the experience was the inclusion of fries—an accompaniment that has, somewhat surprisingly, become less standard in recent years. Fortunately, these arrived crisp and well-seasoned, a welcome and delicious complement to the plate.

Beyond the burger, we followed a friend’s recommendation and began with the Caesar salad. It proved to be an excellent decision. Topped with boquerones, the salad delivered brightness and depth, the briny anchovies tying the components together with intention and balance. It was, arguably, the most cohesive dish of the meal.

From a value perspective, the offering is fair, though it loses ground on execution. While there are elements to appreciate, the overall experience does not compel a return visit. It is a burger I can comfortably admire once, but not necessarily seek out again.


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